gucci spring 24

The new Gucci creative director, Sabato de Sarno, has received a lot of mixed opinions about his debut collection at Milan Fashion Week. For the last 8 years we have known Gucci to be Alessandro Michele who embraces maximalism, exciting colors, and fun prints. However, while his debut collection was full of hope for the brand and a new era back in 2015, their sales have been consistently going down over the years and something needed a change within the luxury fashion house.

Image: Gucci via Vogue Runway

With de Sarno as creative director, he is really hoping to push into the Italian roots of the brand and honor the deep history and heritage of the brand, but with his own twist. TikTok seems to not be a fan of this new Gucci era, but there is so much more behind this collection. This collection is titled “Ancora” which means “again” in English. “Ancora is a word that you use when your desire is not over yet, whether it’s a kiss or an embrace, or making love; it’s as if you own something and you want more of it,” he told WWD, adding that he wanted to “fall in love with fashion all over again — ancora,” said de Sarno when talking about his debut looks.

Image: Filippo Fior via Vogue Runway

With the bright and colorful floral print gone, it is now replaced with quiet luxury looks with masterful tailoring and silhouettes that show off every inch of the model’s body. I see this collection as very wearable, and it contains looks that I could honestly wear to class (however I could wear anything to class and it would be acceptable). The lace detailing on some of the dresses gives the pieces a bit of an edge and something different than what you would normally see with Gucci.

Image: Filippo Fior via Vogue Runway

Women’s Wear Daily writer, Booth Moore, explained that the looks we saw were a part of the “elegant daywear trend seen at Prada, among others, with 1960s-meets-1990s tailored coats, super short shorts and cute logo rompers and jumpers [. . .]”. This might differ from most people’s opinions, but I really enjoyed this collection, and I am excited to see what else de Sarno will do for Gucci because it’s definitely going to be different.

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